We wake, both feeling a bit rough, but head about our plans. Ikaria is green and has water! I hire us a car and we get some excessive breakfast by the docks - this place is quiet and slow on a Saturday morning. - everyone looks hung over and speaks greek around us.
We drive to Nas - the roads are tiny and slow but the views are amazing and there are no crazy tourists on quads or buses.
We find Thea’s place easily enough - an easy traveller’s place - tiny room with an amazing views - sea breezes instead of air conditioning and no formalities beyond a handshake and exchange of first names - our kind of people. We settle and sleep for a few hours - we’re both feeling the physicality of our last day but wake more ready and head down to the nearby beach cove.
This turns out to be a spectacular rocky beach cove with an ancient temple to Artemis along the river. We paddle and explore and take photos and slowly climb up the rocks back to Thea’s where we drink the dark red wine they make themselves and eat simple food (the feta is brilliant).
We watch the sunset and play bananagram and cards with red wine and water. Some greeks and other guests chattering behind us in a mixture of languages (english/greek/french etc) and the growing darkness over the sea spreads out before us. Then bed.